Southern Rome – Getting off the Beaten Track

While many first-time visitors to the ‘Eternal City’ justifiably spend their time beating the well-trodden tourist trails around the historic centre, repeat visitors will find plenty of other attractions in lesser-visited suburbs around Rome. It’s well worth noting that only four per cent of the Italian capital is covered by its historic centre.

Many flights to Rome arrive at the city’s modern Fiumicino International Airport, 35kms west of the historic centre. However, increasing numbers of passengers are arriving at the older Ciampino International Airport, where low-cost carriers such as Wizzair and easyJet operate. Located in the southeast of the city, Ciampino is a convenient gateway to the southern outskirts and neighbourhoods such as Aventino-Testaccio.

Located on the eighth hill of Rome, Testaccio is one of the best places to find traditional Roman food; in fact, it is considered to be one of the best places to eat out in the entire city. Meanwhile, the Testaccio morning market is a good place to browse fresh Italian produce or even prepare for a Roman picnic at one of the parks on the River Tiber.

Aventino-Testaccio is not renowned for its nightlife, but there are some interesting drinking venues around the neighbourhood. Near Testaccio Market, L’Oasi della Birra is a basement bar with one of the best selections of world beers in the city as well as fine food. Meanwhile, the wine shop at ground level stocks an excellent selection of wines.

Testaccio also has a few of its own tourist attractions, such as the Pyramid of Gaius Cestius, next to Piramide metro station, and the Protestant Cemetery, behind the pyramid. The cemetery is best-known as the final resting place of John Keats, the famous poet and long-time Roman resident.

The Piramide district is also home to one of the finest Roman restaurants, the Taverna Cestia. With its Italian-only menu, this eatery is the perfect spot for diners to escape the crowds of tourists in central areas and enjoy fantastic seafood pasta dishes in an ambient setting. Other Testaccio gems include the expensive Checchino, situated opposite Rome’s former abattoir, and Flavio al Velavevodetto, for Roman cuisine on a more typical budget.

While Testaccio is most-famed for its cuisine, neighbouring Aventino has a much wider range of visitor attractions, including some of the finest views of the city. Janiculum Hill is located in Parco Savello and offers views of the legendary St Peter’s Basilica and to the right, Rome’s historic centre.

Visitors to Parco Savello can visit the impressive Basilica de Santa Sabina, dating back to the 5th century, before following the road to the Keyhole Gate, one of several gates on this route. The Keyhole View allows visitors to enjoy an alternative view of the Vatican City between two groups of trees. Those who have not prepared their own picnic can find a temporary food stall next to the keyhole. The view is one of the most popular things to see in Aventino, so visitors might encounter crowds at peak times.

Despite its location away from the centre of Rome, Aventino-Testaccio has a decent range of accommodation, from bed and breakfasts to apartment-style suites. Visitors might like to book mid-range hotel rooms in advance online, especially as such accommodation can easily fill up when there are conferences taking place at the UN Food and Agriculture Organisation (FAO).